Pudim de leite: Brazilian caramel custard

Ingredients and method

Approximately 12 small slices; allow at least 6 hours to chill, preferably overnight

Ingredients

• For the caramel: 1 US cup granulated sugar (about 200 g)
• For the caramel: 1/3 US cup water (about 80 mL)
• 2 cans full-fat sweetened condensed milk, 14 ounces / 397 g each; two Brazilian 395 g cans also fit this batch
• 2 1/2 US cups whole milk (about 590 mL)
• 4 large eggs
• Boiling water for the baking water bath, separate from the caramel water

Method

1. Set an oven rack in the middle and heat to 325°F. Use a one-piece metal tube or flan mold about 9 inches across, at least 3 inches deep and at least 10 cups in capacity, plus a roasting pan that holds it with space around the sides. The mold must have a sealed bottom, not a removable base or springform seam. Have a fine-mesh sieve, a thermometer, dry oven mitts and a rimmed serving platter ready.
2. Make the caramel. Put the sugar and 1/3 cup water in a light-colored saucepan. Stir over low heat just until the sugar dissolves, then raise to medium and bring to a boil. Stop stirring once it boils. Watch closely as the syrup changes from clear to golden and then amber; remove it from the heat before it becomes very dark or smells burnt. Hot caramel burns severely: do not taste it, touch it or add liquid to it.
3. Set the dry metal mold on a heatproof surface and carefully pour in the caramel. Wearing dry oven mitts, gently tilt the mold to spread it across the bottom and a little way up the sides, including around the center tube. The metal becomes hot. Set it down and let the coating firm for about 10 minutes while you mix the custard.
4. In a large bowl, gently whisk the eggs just enough to combine the whites and yolks. Slowly stir in the condensed milk, then the whole milk. Avoid whipping air into the mixture. Let it stand for a few minutes, then pour through the sieve into the caramel-lined mold. Do not taste the uncooked custard; wash hands and equipment that touched raw egg.
5. Place the filled mold inside the roasting pan. Move the assembly onto the oven rack, then carefully add boiling water to the roasting pan until it reaches halfway up the outside of the mold. Keep water out of the custard and slide the rack in gently. Bake uncovered. Start checking at 75 minutes; about 90 minutes is a planning estimate, and some pans and ovens will need longer.
6. Check both temperature and texture. The custard must reach at least 160°F in its thickest part, between the center tube and outer wall, without the thermometer touching metal. Its edges should be set and the center should wobble gently as one mass rather than slosh like liquid. If the temperature is lower or the center is still liquid, continue baking and check again. It should not be rigid all the way through.
7. When done, carefully lift the mold from the water bath with dry oven mitts and set it on a rack; leave the hot bath to cool before moving or emptying it. Let the custard cool for about 30–60 minutes, then refrigerate promptly, loosely covered at first and fully covered once cold. Get it into the refrigerator within 2 hours of leaving the oven, or within 1 hour if the room is above 90°F. Chill at 40°F or below for at least 6 hours, preferably overnight.
8. Unmold the cold custard shortly before serving. Run a thin knife carefully around both the outer edge and the center tube. If it will not release, dip just the bottom of the mold in warm water for 10–15 seconds, then dry the outside. Put a rimmed platter over the mold, hold both firmly and invert together. Lift the mold after the custard releases; do not pound or force it. Spoon the liquid caramel from the mold over the custard and slice.
9. Keep the custard covered and refrigerated, and finish within 3–4 days of baking. Return leftovers to the refrigerator promptly. Discard portions left out for more than 2 hours in total, or 1 hour above 90°F.